Ancient Egyptians reportedly bathed in sour milk, a source of alpha hydroxy acids, to obtain glowing skin. Fortunately for us, we can get the same benefit with a more pleasant scent.
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Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally found in milk (lactic acid), fruit (glycolic acid) and sugar cane (citric acid). Synthetic versions are also available. Dr. Debra Jaliman, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist (St. Martin’s Press), explains how AHAs enhance the skin: “They work by dissolving the glue that sticks the epidermal cells together so they help remove the dead skin cells off the surface. They exfoliate the skin and make your skin look brighter and smoother and even the skin color.” This simple process leads to some rather big results:
Scientific studies suggest AHAs stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. This is a significant finding because collagen and elastin provide strength and elasticity in skin. .
While AHAs are effective, there are some recommendations by skin care professionals on the best way to use them:
One acid at a time. Jaliman recommends avoiding other acids when using AHAs. “(W)hen you use AHA’s you want to make certain that you don’t use a lot of other acids like salicylic acid and retinol because you can irritate your skin and make it red and it will start to peel. If you want to use other anti-aging products with the AHAs, it is better to use antioxidants or peptides which are gentler,” she says.
Wear sunscreen. The dead layer of skin, while dull in appearance, provides some measure of protection from sunlight. Removing this layer exposes more delicate skin to more intense sun exposure. Janet Prystowsky, a board certified dermatologist in New York City, advises using sunscreen to protect your skin. “You’re likely to be more sun sensitive
after using an AHA so take care to avoid sunlight and wear a heavy layer of SPF 30 or higher sunscreen.”
Use at night. Because AHAs increase skin sensitivity to sun, using these products at night helps to minimize any adverse reactions that could occur due to sun exposure.
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Use a cream or serum. Products that contain AHAs are more effective when left on the skin. Cleansers with AHAs offer a limited benefit because it will be washed off soon. Creams and serums that contain AHAs are far more effective vehicles. “I prefer to use the serum as it penetrates faster and attacks the problem quicker,” states Brittney Ward, a licensed aesthetician and celebrity makeup artist.
Limit sun exposure. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) suggests avoiding the outdoors from 10a.m. – 4p.m. Wear hats and protective clothing when outside during this time.
Give AHAs in non-prescription products up to six months in order to see the maximum benefit. Aestheticians and dermatologists use products that are much higher in strength, so results should be apparent sooner.
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Even if the above guidelines are followed, there are some precautions to bear in mind. “AHAs should not be used on inflamed skin like eczema, sunburn or rashes. Alpha hydroxy acids may cause temporary tingling when used properly, but can cause stinging if used in excess. Stop using products with vitamin A like tretinoin or retinol a week before using AHAs or the AHA will sink into the skin too far causing an overreaction,” says Dr. Prystowsky. Dr. Jaliman adds, “If you have very sensitive skin you may want to start off by using the AHA every other night instead of every night.”
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